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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known high-end venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.